Recent Posts

Ok another update to all yous guys out there.

*This will be the contact for the backpack*


*the 'Hooks' with holes to fit the wires.*


Still, i doubt anybody cares, does anybody know how to remove the plating on the Musha MK-II? i want to get it off for when i get my airbrush system.

I guess this is the appropriate place to post this on the site.  **Moderator Staff please let me know if this is inappropriate, I didn't see any posts flat out banning or discouraging the selling of casted detail parts, but I realize the potential for controversy, so let me know if this is not appropriate for this site.  I do regularly post here and have for a while, I just think I might have something to contribute to the modeling community in this way and I want to share it, while making a few bucks to continue the hobby. 

I have recently started getting in 3D Modeling, and am hopefully going to have some of my prototypes printed this week and sent back to me.  In december I plan on purchasing a pressure pot and starting to pressure cast my prototypes for sale to anyone who is interested.  The concept is much like what MechaSkunk did on his website.  I make custom weapons and detail parts, as soon as I have them and get a chance to do them up, I will post the images.  You guys can then purchase either the prototype version (from the prototyping website, these cost more, but are printed without mold lines or trim waste, so essentially come true to the design) or the casted version. (which I will start producing in January or December maybe, these will cost about half as much, but come with mold lines and require cleanup similar to any resin kit.)  I think once I get into the casting part I will probably just use postal service flat rate boxes to simplify the shipping and costs.  If you feel like ordering one from the prototype website they will print it in your choice of material and ship it to you for their posted price.  You should know though that the prototype website requires a minimum order amount of $25 to make it worth their while.  So far I have three models that are being prototyped, (or so I hope, I haven't received any notification of file problems) and I will post the links below.  As I get the prototypes and get a chance to do them up, I will post the images and perhaps video showing the actual product being held by say a Gundam.  Again this is my first post on this subject, and I just want to let everybody know that I'm going to start producing these soon, and if anyone is interested in buying these let me know, or go to the website links.  *Again my casted versions of my prototypes will probably be available in December or January, and I will constantly be adding to what I make assuming all goes well.  Well here are the links:

1/60 Mecha SMG-http://www.shapeways.com/model/151937/1_60_mecha_smg.html?gid=ug48915

1/100 Mecha SMG-http://www.shapeways.com/model/151947/1_100_model_mecha_smg.html?gid=ug48915

1/100 Laywaster-http://www.shapeways.com/model/153119/laywaster.html?gid=ug48915

I think to order from them the prices are as follows:

1/60 Mecha SMG-$21

1/100 Mecha SMG-$6.09

1/100 Laywaster- $44.46

All prices from them are based on price of materials used, and little overhead for them.  Oh and you don't pay any shipping, I believe anyway that it's included as part of the item, but you must spend at least $25 per order, mainly just to make it worth their time, and they are located in the Netherlands, so it should take 10 business days or less to ship UPS.  Le sigh, shameless plugging aside, I hope to have some images to post of the completed items soon.  The 1/60 SMG was designed using the Perfect Grade MK II as a reference for size, the 1/100 I used a HG Astraea Type F hand for size reference, but I'm sure they should fit all the same for MG's as well.  To be safe, anybody interested in these but not wanting to gamble, you can wait for me to post the actual sizes in MG Gundam hands to see for yourself the sizing and shape.  Again this is just to let anyone who might be interested know that I'm starting to sell detail parts and model mecha weapons, mainly designed with the MG Gundams in mind.  Well for now, enjoy!

1/100 Laywaster 3d Model in Sketchup 8:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Am2SfS-sd6c

that sucks wll at least the kit looks nice

One of my better builds though far from perfection. unfortunately the gun broke accidentally and i just use blue tack to salvage thus looking abit unsightly feel free to comment and criticise!

Hey thanks for your thoughts on this issue,i'll wait for some more suggestion Thanks Again

You could try a little sanding of the joints, (i.e. sanding holes bigger/sanding pegs smaller or if its a ball joint, sand the ball.) wouldn't hurt to try, but just be careful and don't over do it. That's just IMO, you might want to wait until some of the better modelers post on this.

Man, idc who you are, that's one bad [inappropriate language] Gyan. So what if you messed up the paint, learn from it on and fix it on ur next kit.

Don't down yur kit so bad. Check out my RX-178-2, it a hell of alot more crappy than yours. Your painting is amazing! Theres nothin wrong with it. Even your mistakes somtimes make masterpieces. I you could tell what kind of paint and how you painted it that would be nice. The texture also fits that type of SD figure. Keep up the good work!

really thanks for your kind words, make my gyan feel happier. lol. i actually tried dry brushing on this kit but did not do too well so ended up a bit messy. i used tamiya enamel paint. gold and silver from mr hobby. although your rx 178 looks a bit 'messy' but ur zaku is real cool. keep it up too!

Anybody wants a free kit you can have mine, I'll give it away or bin it before I even bother finishing it.

I'll sent some money to you via pay pal for postage, always looking to expand the bits box.

[EDIT:]

EDIT: Anybody know how to remove the gold plating on the Musha MK-II?

so yea, starting to build my Musha MK-II MG now, but i decided to take it a step further. I'm going to attempt to install an LED.

Here is some pics:

*You can see where the LED will go.*


*The LED in the socket, Sorry dirty fingernails *


Pretty neat eh? this is my first time modding
Now the sad part is i sanded down to much, the LED needs to be at at least a 25 degree angle to get Maximum light exposure to the eyes. I will putty this and show it to you guys at a later time.
now my idea is to make the back pack the battery pack. ill draw up some schematics later but ill explain it.

The batteries will be inside the backpack in an easy to get in and out process, then they will be wired to the thruster pieces that will have some thin copper plating on them, then this copper plating will touch other plating in the torso when fully snapped in, and order to turn off the led, just pop up the backpack to where its still on, but not snapped on place. Hopefully this works out.